Toothpastes and rinses

There are many pet toothpastes on the market today. Make sure you use a pet toothpaste. Toothpastes designed for people can upset your dog’s stomach. Pet toothpastes may contain several different active ingredients. Various veterinary dentists have recommended those toothpastes, gels, and rinses that contain chlorhexidine, hexametaphosphate, or zinc gluconate. For dogs with periodontal disease, fluoride treatments or toothpastes may be prescribed by your veterinarian. (Please do not use any human fluoride containing toothpastes on your pet.) Flavored toothpastes can make toothbrushing more acceptable to pets.

Toothbrushes, sponges, and pads

The real benefit of toothbrushing comes from the mechanical action of the brush on the teeth. Various brushes, sponges and pads are available. The choice of what to use depends on the health of your dog’s gums, the size of your dog’s mouth, and your ability to clean the teeth.

Use toothbrushes designed specifically for pets – they are smaller, ultra-soft, and have a somewhat different shape. Finger toothbrushes that do not have a handle, but fit over your finger, may be easier for some people to use. Pet toothbrushes are available through our company, your veterinarian, or some pet stores. For some dogs, starting out with dental sponges or pads may be helpful since they are more pliable. Dental sponges have a small sponge at the end of a handle, and are disposable. They are softer than brushes. Dental pads can help remove debris from the teeth and gums but do not provide the mechanical action that brushes do.

Where to begin

Number one, this should be fun for you and your dog. Be upbeat and take things slowly. Do not overly restrain your dog. Keep sessions short and positive. Be sure to praise your dog throughout the process. Give yourself a pat on the back, too! You are doing a great thing for your dog!

1. First, have your dog get used to the taste of the toothpaste. Pet toothpastes have a poultry, malt, or other flavor so your dog will like the taste. Get your dog used to the flavor and consistency of the toothpaste. Let your dog lick some off your finger. Praise your dog when he licks the paste and give a reward (really tasty treat). If your dog does not like the taste of the toothpaste, you may need to try a different kind. Continue this step for a few days or until your dog looks forward to licking the paste.
2. The next step is to have your dog become comfortable with having something placed against his teeth and gums. Apply a small amount of paste to your finger and gently rub it on one of the large canine teeth in the front of the mouth. These are the easiest teeth for you to get at and will give you some easier practice. Be sure to praise your dog and give a tasty treat or other special reward (e.g., playing ball).
3. After your dog is used to the toothpaste, and having something applied to his teeth, get him used to the toothbrush or dental sponge you will be using routinely. We need to get your dog used to the consistency of these items, especially the bristles on a brush. So, let your dog lick the toothpaste off of the brush so he gets used to the texture. Again, praise your dog when he licks the paste and give a really great treat or other reward . Continue this step for about a week, making sure your dog readily licks the paste off of the brush.
4. Now your dog is used to the toothbrush and toothpaste and having something in his mouth. So the next step is to start brushing. Talk to your dog in a happy voice during the process and praise your dog at the end. Lift the upper lip gently and place the brush at a 45º angle to the gumline. Gently move the brush back and forth. At first, you may just want to brush one or both upper canine teeth. You do not need to brush the inside surface of the teeth (the side towards the tongue). The movement of the tongue over the inside surfaces keeps them relatively free of plaque. Be sure to praise your dog, end on a good note and give a tasty treat or other great reward.
5. When your dog accepts having several teeth brushed, slowly increase the number of teeth you are brushing. Again, by making it appear to be a game, you both will have fun doing it.

How often?

Certainly, the more often you brush the better. Always aim for daily dental care for your dog, just as you aim for daily dental care for yourself. The hardest thing about home dental care for dogs is just getting started. Once you have done it for a while, it just becomes part of your daily routine. If you cannot brush daily, brushing every other day will remove the plaque before it has time to mineralize. This will still have a positive effect on your dog’s oral health.

Other dental care items

Water-piks: A water-pik-type dental system has been developed for dogs. It works on the same principle as similar devices for people. Chlorhexidine is added to the water to kill the bacteria in the mouth, and the water stream removes the plaque. This may be especially useful for some pets with gum disease, who bleed from the gums if a brush is used.

Food: Studies show that hard kibbles are slightly better at keeping plaque from accumulating on the teeth. There is a veterinary dentist-approved food on the market called t/d made by Hill’s, the Science Diet people. Research studies have shown that pets eating this food have less plaque and calculus build-up. This food is available through your veterinarian.

Avoid feeding dogs table scraps or sweet treats because they can increase the build up of plaque and tartar, and can lead to other health problems.

Toys: Mechanical removal of plaque can be accomplished by using toys such as Plaque Attacker dental toys, rope toys, or rawhide chips. Do not use toys that are abrasive and can wear down the teeth. If your dog is a very aggressive chewer, choose toys that are not so hard that he could possibly break a tooth on them. You may need to look for toys he cannot get his mouth around. Rawhide or other chews that soften as the dog chews are another option. Always supervise your dog when he is chewing on a toy.

Treats: There are some dental chews on the market that are specifically designed to help control plaque and tartar buildup. Look for dental chews accepted by the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC).

© 2010 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208

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Usually by four weeks of age puppies get their deciduous teeth, commonly known as baby teeth. Beginning around three months of age, the deciduous teeth are replaced by the bigger and stronger permanent teeth. It takes an additional three to five months for the permanent teeth to replace all of the baby teeth. Occasionally, the permanent teeth do not erupt immediately under the deciduous teeth, and therefore, do not force the baby teeth out. When a dog has both an adult and baby tooth at the same site, it is referred to as a retained deciduous tooth. In the dog, this usually occurs with the incisors or upper canine baby teeth.

What are the symptoms?

In puppies with a retained deciduous tooth, a permanent tooth is seen along side the baby tooth it was meant to replace. The permanent canine teeth usually erupt in front of the deciduous canines.

What are the risks?

Retained baby teeth frequently cause a crowding of the teeth along the gumline. This crowding displaces the permanent teeth so that they are out of line or grow at odd angles. The abnormal placement of teeth can interfere with the normal growth and development of bones in the jaws. They may contact the roof of the mouth causing injury and pain. Retained teeth may also die and abscess, causing mouth infections to develop.

What is the management?

Retained deciduous teeth should be extracted. This will usually require anesthesia and surgical extraction. Check a puppy’s mouth weekly until about seven months of age for abnormal teeth. Consult a veterinarian for an oral examination if any retained teeth are suspected.

© 2010 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208

Rule 1.   Always Be Consistent

The First Rule of general training is Always Be Consistent. There should be no exceptions here if you want the training to go as rapidly and as easily as possible. This relates to your actions and words. From the very start you need to decide exactly what you are trying to teach or control and how you will do it. If you are going to use a certain word or phrase as part of a command or in conjunction with a certain point you are trying to make, always say the exact same thing in the same tone of voice. This is important for all the members of a household or anyone else working with the puppy. Everyone that is involved in the training should know and use the same expression. As an example, let us think in terms of the “Come” command. It obviously will not make things go faster if you use the word “Come,” your spouse uses the word “Here,” and one of the children uses “Yo, Boy.” All of this simply confuses the dog. Remember, we are trying to train him in our language; we cannot expect the puppy to be multilingual at 8 weeks of age.

Every time you give a command or are working on a training point, consistently carry it through to completion. Do not tug on the check cord for the pup to come to you and then become distracted and forget what you are doing. If you start pulling the animal in but then stop with him halfway to you, he becomes confused. The puppy is supposed to come to you, all the way to you. If you do not ensure that happens, the puppy may think that it is okay, when given the ‘Come’ command, to only come in part way to you or completely ignore the command.

Try to expect the same reaction out of the puppy each time. If you use any form of praise or reward for a job well done, be consistent on how well the task in question is completed before the praise or reward is forthcoming. If the puppy is supposed to sit, do not praise him if he only bends the rear legs a little bit. People love to praise their dogs and sometimes they are so anxious to do this that the animal is hearing a string of “Good Boys,” but it has not yet completed what he was supposed to. Over time this tells the puppy that he does not have to sit all the way down but rather a slight crouch will do. The puppy will believe that close is good enough.

When you start training the dog on a particular day, think of the next few minutes as classroom time. When children are in school, there is classroom time for learning and recess for playing. The same should occur with your puppy. When you start a training session, maintain a consistent training attitude for you and your puppy. Think training and not play. Work only on training issues and do them over and over. Stay in control so it does not become playtime for the puppy. When you are not in a training session, be careful of what you say and do.

In the early stages of training, never give a command unless you can control the puppy’s actions. This is a part of consistency that many owners overlook. As an example, let us say you are currently in the process of teaching your puppy the ‘Come’ command. She does not respond every time yet but she is learning what the word means. You are in the backyard together playing with the puppy and children. It is recess, not classroom time. The puppy is off of her lead and suddenly takes off after a wild rabbit. Do not, we repeat, do not even think about saying “Come!” You know the puppy is not going to respond because her mind is on the rabbit and only the rabbit. If you do scream “Come,” hopefully the dog will be so distracted that she will not hear you. Because if she does recognize the command but continues after the rabbit, the puppy has just learned that when you are not in control, she can get away with ignoring what you say. During the training phase, when the pup is doing something, and you are in a position that you are unable to control or restrain her, do not say anything. Rather move to the animal and stop or prevent her from what it is she is doing. In the above example, you have two correct choices. You can either let her continue the chase or run and catch the puppy. Do not scream “Come.”

Along the way, you may make modifications in your training method but from that point on be consistent. You may find that certain styles of training work better on your pup. That is okay, but do not start switching back and forth. Just because one command is going slow, you should not change from method to method, hoping you find the magic formula that speeds up the process. This rarely happens and in the interim, the puppy may become hopelessly confused. We have found that any individual pup, regardless of the method used, may have trouble with a certain command but not the others. This probably relates back to some experience in the animal’s past.

Rule 2.   Keep Training Sessions Short

The Second Rule of general training is Keep Training Sessions Short. In many instances, young children can become engrossed for several hours in a game, book, or television show. Successful kindergarten teachers can make learning fun and productive often for an hour or so. However, dogs and especially puppies, do not possess long attention spans. Young pups will not spend more than a few minutes chasing an exciting, moving stimulus like a butterfly or bird. They simply lose interest and go on to the next thing. The same is true with training, they burn out quickly and become bored. After that has happened, nothing further will be learned.

Generally speaking, most successful trainers limit training sessions to no more that 10 or 15 minutes regardless of the age of the animal. This seems to be a good duration for most dogs to tolerate or enjoy. If this window of time is exceeded, the learning process actually starts to go backwards. It is important that the puppy enjoy these sessions. If not, they may resent the entire program. If forced to continue training after they have lost interest, this same behavior may spill over into future sessions. Keep their minds occupied and keep it fun.

Set up a schedule and stick to it. It is much better to train for 10 minutes every day than 60 minutes once a week. Plan to have your training times revolve around the pup’s schedule. Do not expect the puppy to be a ball of energy and willing to learn if you try to work on the commands when it would normally be napping or eating. Plan your training sessions when distractions are at a minimum. If you have young children, it might go better if you trained while they are at school or in some way occupied.

There are ways to get in additional training time other than the brief scheduled periods and these extra ones can be very important. If your animal is doing something that you are trying to train him to do, use obvious opportunities to reinforce the command. A best case scenario would be when you are getting ready to feed the puppy. You have learned that as soon as the animal hears you filling the bowl he automatically comes running. As soon as he starts toward you, bend down with the bowl and say “Come.” It is a free, cannot fail training session. Another example would be when you are trying to train the puppy not to do something. Let us say you are trying to keep him from jumping on people. You have learned that every time you first come home, the puppy rockets through the house and jumps up on your leg. Be prepared and when he jumps up immediately put light pressure on his toes (see our article on Jumping Up on People). Then immediately bend down and greet the puppy just like you always do. Do not say anything about the jumping as you two are happy to see each other. Whenever you can control the animal or know what he is going to do, it is a good idea to use these situations as a continuation of your training.

Rule 3.   Stay Calm and In Control

The Third Rule of general training is Stay Calm and In Control. This is where most people fail in training. By staying calm and in control we are talking about you, not the dog. In training situations you can never lose control or get excited because when you do you may become mad, lose your temper, and do something exceptionally stupid. Training should be enjoyable for both you and the animal. If the puppy is not having a good time she will not learn anything. Likewise, if you are out of control or are not enjoying yourself you are not teaching anything.

During training there should not be any distractions for the puppy to contend with. You should guide her through the command so that she does it and is then praised for the successful completion of the task. If you are excited or angry your puppy will pick up on this and not be thinking about the task in question. You have to be focused for the animal to be able to concentrate on the training. You will learn that your demeanor during training is directly proportional to the amount the puppy will learn. If you are up for this and enjoying it, the potential is there for the dog to make solid headway during the lesson. But if you are down then the pup’s potential for anything good coming from the session is also way down.

Carried to the extreme, if you get mad and lash out or treat the puppy harshly, you have destroyed any good that might have come out of this individual training session. You have also set back the animal’s understanding of the particular command or act in question and put a black cloud over the relationship between the two of you. When you do something to another person that you should be sorry for, you can sincerely express your regret and apologize. If they are of a forgiving nature, the act or unkind words are forgotten. Unfortunately, you cannot sit down with your puppy and reason through the stupidity of your act. What is done is done, and you must work long hours to regain the animal’s trust. You will need to take time that could and should have been used for training just becoming her friend again.

Some people do better in training if they use a system in which they do not talk to the dog during training. They teach the dog the command without using or putting a verbal command to it. We will go over this method later but if you tend to raise your voice when you sense that you are not in control (or in the process of losing control), this may be a useful technique to try. Most people talk way too much during training and for some this becomes a stepping stone to shouting and anger.

Rule 4.   Do Not Over Praise

The Fourth Rule of general training is Do Not Over Praise. In dog training, praise for doing something correctly can take a variety of forms. Some prefer to give a treat, others may use the expression “Good Dog,” and a third group may only give a single, gentle petting action across the animal’s shoulder. They all work because they show to the dog that you are pleased or approve of his actions. You said “Come,” and the puppy came. You indicated for the dog to sit, and he sat down. The animal did what he was supposed to. Praise is important, but the animal needs only to recognize it as a thank you for a job well done. You communicate to the dog that he did something correctly and you are happy he did. If your form of praise is always consistent in method and amount, the puppy will understand perfectly.

Where many owners err is that they bury their animal in praise. Rather than say a single “Good Dog,” they get down on their knee and let out a string of forty “Good Dogs.” Instead of a single stroke over the shoulder, they give the animal a full body massage. Instead of a single small piece of a biscuit or treat, the dog is given half a box. All of these overdoses do the same thing. They distract the dog from what it has just learned. Too much of a good thing and the animal forgets what the two of you are doing. The command and his response are no longer reinforcing correct behavior. The entire incident may be lost in the past.

Rule 5.   Always End on A Positive Note

The Fifth Rule of general training is to Always End on A Positive Note. Every training session should end with praise. The last thing you ask or command the puppy to do should be completed with the puppy doing it correctly. Someday, when things are not going as well as you would prefer, for the last command, choose something that is easy and cannot fail. When the puppy does it correctly, praise her and move someplace else for some recess time or relaxation. Ending a session on a bad note may continue into the next training period. You want the pup to finish one lesson and because of the praise, to look forward to the next session. Always remember that to the dog, praise helps fulfill her desire to please you.

Rule 6.   Forget Discipline (Punishment)

The Sixth Rule of general training is Forget Discipline. Now before you overreact, understand what we mean. To some trainers and most dog owners, discipline usually means to punish the animal for something he has done. To these same people, punishment usually means to hurt the animal in some way. In our minds this just is not necessary. If discipline means punishment or causes pain, forget it.

Let us look at the most common reasons people discipline their dogs. The most common one is for something the animal did. Notice we did not say “something the animal was doing.” Rather, we used the past tense. People punish their dog for something she did in the past. Examples would be finding a stool in the house during the housebreaking process. You did not catch the animal doing it, you only discovered it later. The pup is picked up, scolded, and put in her crate. A second example would be if someone’s dog runs away from home without them knowing it. Two or three hours later she returns, so to make her see the error of her ways, the owner punishes her. They use a rolled-up newspaper to give her a spanking. Neither of these animals had any idea what the punishment was for. They did not sit there thinking, “Gosh, I wonder what I did lately that deserved punishment?” Dogs do not reason. Just because they got punished, they do not assume they did something wrong. All they know is that their owners were mad.

Often punishment that occurs as part of training is brought about because the owner is impatient with the improvement of the dog. The owner is trying to push the animal through training too fast, assuming the dog should already know the command or action. Be patient, remember that with most training you are altering the natural instinctive behavior of the animal. The best punishment for an incorrect reaction in training is a lack of a reward. If the animal does it right she is praised, if she makes a mistake she receives no praise. If praise from you is important, a lack of it may send a message. Praise is positive reinforcement, punishment is a distraction.

There has to be a good way to communicate to the animal when she is currently misbehaving. And there are but they are not going to hurt anybody. In some cases a stern “No” is all that is required. You catch the animal urinating in the house, you say “No,” pick the puppy up and carry her outside. Dogs understand a change in the tone of your voice much better than they do most punishment.

In human behavioral medicine today, a “time out” is believed to be an excellent way to get across to children that they are acting in an unacceptable fashion. When they act up or do something wrong, they must live through a period of “time out.” This is a new way of saying ‘go to your room’ or ‘stand in the corner.’ The same method can be used for dogs. If they are out of control, barking excessively, or jumping on the furniture, they are given some “time out” by being placed in a cage or crate. A stern “No” may also be part of the treatment.

And lastly, in place of punishment we can simply choose to ignore them. When children act in a way solely to gain attention, good therapy is to ignore them. In some examples this also works for dogs. A dog might bark just to get a treat or to go outside. If you want them to have neither, consistently ignoring them will probably break the behavior pattern. If the barking does not work and they do not get what they want, they will probably stop the barking.

Most things we want to punish our dogs for indicate a lack of training. Rather than punish them for doing something you do not want, train them to do what you would prefer. Until that can be accomplished, a firm “No,” being placed in a crate, or ignored will bring an end to most unacceptable behavior.

Be Honest – Can You Train?

Be honest with yourself. Not everybody can train his or her dog. Many people say they do not have the time but if they cannot afford 10 minutes a day then do they really have the time to have a dog? Maybe the issue is that they do not enjoy training. This is understandable. Training is not for everybody. Some do not have the patience for it, some cannot control their temper, and some simply do not enjoy it. If you think any of these describe you, then you probably should not try to train your dog. It would be smarter to use a professional trainer. Your dog will not care. In fact, it would probably prefer it. A good professional trainer will only help a dog, while an individual owner who loses control may destroy one. The owner may or may not physically injure the animal but may cripple the dog’s personality and self-confidence. If you think you cannot handle the job, use a trainer.

© 2010 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208

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Q. What are the causes and cures of stool eating?

A. Coprophagy (pronounced kä – präf’ – je) comes from the Greek copro which means feces and phagy which means eat. And that is what it is – eating feces. A habit of dogs we all find disgusting, but as we say, dogs will be dogs. Some dogs especially like feces from herbivores like rabbits, deer, and horses. Others love to raid the cat’s litter box. Still others only eat dog feces if it is frozen. Why do dogs eat feces?

A lot of theories have been suggested as to why dogs eat feces. Are they missing something in their diet? Generally not.

Dogs who eat their feces usually do not have a dietary deficiency. Some medical problems, however, can contribute to coprophagy including severe disorders of the pancreas (pancreatic insufficiency) or intestine, severe malnutrition from massive parasitic infestations, or starvation. These cases are rare.

Some dogs, especially those in kennel situations, may eat feces because they are anxious or stressed. One researcher suggests that dogs who have been punished by their owners for defecating inappropriately start to think any defecation is wrong, so they try to eliminate the evidence.

Another theory is that coprophagy is a trait passed down through the ages. Dogs’ cousins, the wolves and coyotes, may often eat feces if food is in short supply. Feces from herbivores (animals that eat plants for food) contain many of the B vitamins. Some researchers suggest that wolves (and some dogs) may eat feces to replenish their vitamin supply.

In some instances, coprophagy may be a behavior learned from watching other animals. It may also become a habit in the course of play and puppies having to try out the taste of everything.

There is a stage of life in which coprophagy is common and expected. Can you think of what it is? Bitches and queens normally eat the feces of their offspring. This is presumed to occur in an attempt to hide the presence of the litter from predators.

Finally, some dogs may eat feces just because it tastes good (to them).

How do we prevent coprophagia from occurring?

The best way to prevent the problem is to keep yards and kennels free of feces.

Some owners find it successful to use something to make the feces taste horrible. Products such as For-bid (for cats or dogs) and Drs. Foster and Smith Dis-Taste (for dogs) are added to the food of the animal whose feces are being eaten (it could be the food of the dog with coprophagy if he eats his own stool; or the food of the cat, if the dog with coprophagy eats the cat’s feces). The product is digested by the animal, and results in giving the feces a very bad taste. Some people try putting Tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper (chili powder) on the feces (not the food!). Unfortunately, some dogs have acquired quite a taste for Tabasco. These methods work best if the behavior has just started. Once coprophagy has become a habit, it is very difficult to break.

Dogs should be on a leash when walking, so you have control over the dog in case a luscious pile of feces is found along the way. Sometimes, the only way to prevent coprophagy is to fit the dog with a wire muzzle. The dog will be able to sniff, pant, and do most things dogs do, but the dog will not be able to eat with the muzzle on. DO NOT LEAVE A MUZZLED DOG UNATTENDED.

Adding toys and other diversions to the environment may be helpful. We need to find something that is more fun for the dog than eating feces. A dog may find a Kong toy laced with peanut butter a better alternative. Also give the dog lots of exercise to help it ultimately relax.

In situations in which the behavior may be linked to stress, the cause of stress should be eliminated or at least reduced. In some instances of extreme anxiety, or if the behavior becomes obsessive-compulsive, medication may be necessary to try to break the cycle.

One researcher recommends checking the dog’s diet to make sure he is getting enough B vitamins and is not getting an excess of carbohydrates.

Some dogs will improve if they are fed more often, so you may want to increase the number of meals (but keep the total daily intake about the same).

There have been anecdotal reports that adding Prozyme to the diet may aid in eliminating this problem.

For dogs attracted to litter boxes, you may need to be quite creative. Using covered litter boxes and placing the opening towards a wall may help. Some people put the litter box up high. Others put the litter box in a closet and secure the closet door so that the opening is big enough for the cat but will not allow the dog to enter. Keep in mind that if we make the litter box too difficult to reach, the cat may not go to it either.

Above all, do not punish the dog for eating feces. This may reinforce the behavior. General work on obedience is sometimes helpful. If the dog knows what is expected of him and looks to you for cues, he may be less anxious and less likely to start or continue the behavior.

What are the health risks of coprophagy?

Many parasites can be transmitted through eating stool. Generally, herbivores have parasites specific to them; these parasites will not cause disease in carnivores. But dogs eating the feces of other dogs or cats can infect themselves repeatedly with parasites such as giardia, coccidia, and if the feces are around for 2-3 weeks or more, roundworms and whipworms. Such dogs should have regular fecal examinations and dewormings with the appropriate medications depending on the parasites found.

Summary

We are not sure why dogs eat their own feces or the feces of other animals. We do know that if a dog starts this behavior, the sooner we implement prevention measures, the better the chance of success.

© 2010 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208

What are the signs of separation anxiety?

A dog with separation anxiety becomes abnormally anxious when separated from his owner. The severity of the anxiety and the behaviors that the dog exhibits vary from individual to individual. Some dogs become anxious if they cannot actually see their owner; they constantly follow the owner from room to room. Other dogs can tolerate being alone in a room but will check frequently to reassure themselves that the owner is still in the house, and then go back to playing or chewing on a bone in another area. Still other dogs do not become anxious until the owner actually leaves the home. Some dogs become most anxious as soon as the owner leaves, and other dogs have a period of time during which they are comfortable alone, but they become anxious if the owner is gone for an extended period.

This anxiety often increases the longer the owner is gone, and can result in behaviors such as whining, pacing, salivation, barking, howling, hyperactivity, scratching, chewing, digging, urinating or defecating, and destruction of personal items or household objects. Dogs with separation anxiety often exhibit more than one of these behaviors. Dogs have been known to break their teeth and tear their nails and skin trying to get out of crates, and to destroy doors, and jump through windows as their anxiety increases.

Dogs with separation anxiety also often have an overly excited response when their owner returns home. They may whine, jump, or run in circles. This behavior may go on for an abnormal length of time after the owner gets home, and the dog will have the same extreme response even if the owner has only been gone for a few minutes.

What causes separation anxiety?

No one knows, for certain, why some dogs develop separation anxiety and others do not. Separation anxiety can occur in animals from multiple or single-pet homes. Separation anxiety may be more likely to occur in animals with a history of abuse or of multiple homes. Dogs that have missed out on normal social interaction with people or other animals, especially as puppies, may also be at increased risk. A dog that has never had a prior problem may develop separation anxiety when there is a change in the owner’s work schedule, or after the household has moved to a new home. Some dogs may develop separation anxiety as they grow older.

It is important for owners of dogs with separation anxiety to understand that the inappropriate behavior the dog is exhibiting is due to anxiety, and not because the dog is angry or trying to ‘get back’ at the owner. Scolding or punishing the dog will only lead to confusion, more anxiety, and worse behavior. By videotaping some dogs whose owners have punished the dog for his destructive behavior, they have demonstrated that the dog’s anxiety level increases just before the owner would normally come home. In these cases, behaviorists feel the dog’s problem behavior is not due to anxiety about being alone, but because the dog is anxious about the probable punishment it will receive when the owner returns.

What should I do if I suspect my dog has separation anxiety?

If you feel your dog has separation anxiety, the first step is to discuss the situation with your veterinarian and have the dog undergo a complete physical examination. It is important to make sure that your dog’s behavior is truly due to separation anxiety and not to something else. (For instance, inappropriate urination may occur if your dog was never actually fully housetrained, or if he has a urinary tract infection. A dog may bark when alone because he feels he is protecting his property, or because he can hear another dog.)

Your veterinarian may recommend some testing to make sure your dog does not have any underlying medical problems, which could contribute to behavior problems or make them worse. Tests may include a complete blood count, a chemistry profile, urinalysis, thyroid testing, a blood pressure check, and an ECG. These tests will also be important to verify the health status of your dog prior to being placed on any medication. Be sure that your veterinarian is aware of any other medication your dog is already taking, and any previous health problems.

How is separation anxiety treated?

For dogs with separation anxiety, the most effective approach is usually a combination of behavior modification exercises and anti-anxiety medication. It is essential to realize that both medication and behavior modification exercises are important parts of therapy for dogs with separation anxiety. In most cases, using one component alone will not be sufficient to achieve success. The medication is used to help your dog relax so that she can concentrate on performing the behavior modification exercises; the exercises are what actually change the dog’s response to a stressful situation, over time.

Medications: Commonly used medications include clomipramine and fluoxetine. These are approved medications for the treatment of separation anxiety that can be prescribed by your veterinarian. Since these medications may take several weeks to acheive effective levels, short-acting drugs such as alprazolam may be prescribed at first. Any anti-anxiety drug prescribed by your veterinarian needs to be given exactly as directed. Dogs with separation anxiety have a higher overall anxiety level, and drugs used as part of a treatment plan for separation anxiety need to be given regularly, not just when the dog seems anxious. Patience is important; it can take weeks to months for certain drugs to become effective. It is often necessary to try several drugs or combinations of drugs, to determine what will work best for an individual dog.

Behavior modification: Your veterinarian may be able to give you help with the behavior modification exercises, or refer you to an experienced animal behaviorist or trainer in your area. For the best result, it is important that the person you work with has had experience working with dogs with separation anxiety. Behavior modification exercises must be done consistently (for weeks to months) to see results, and the exercises may need to be continued for life.

Teach independence: Avoid rewarding attention-seeking behavior. Reward the dog with petting, treats, or other attention only when she is calm and quiet.

Reward relaxation: With your dog in a “sit” or “down” position in a quiet resting area in the home, reward your dog when he is calm. A calm dog will not be panting, wagging his tail, or otherwise moving. Use a word like “easy” or “steady” to serve as a cue for the relaxed behavior. When your dog learns to be relaxed with you close by (this may take days to weeks), slowly increase the distance between you and your dog. Provide a treat when the dog is calm. If your dog shows evident signs of being relaxed (puts his head down or sighs), provide an extra special reward.

Desensitize to departure cues: Almost everyone has a set routine when they leave the house – shaving or putting on makeup, putting on shoes, picking up the keys, putting on a coat, etc. These activities inadvertently signal to your dog that you are going to leave, and many dogs start to get anxious as soon as they see these departure cues. To desensitize your dog to these cues, do them several times during the day but don’t leave. Ignore any anxiety your dog may show.

Downplay departures: It is best to ignore your dog for 15-30 minutes before you depart and as you depart.

Provide safety: Unless confinement increases anxiety, house your dog in a comfortable, safe, room or spacious crate.

If your dog cannot be left safely alone, consider dog day care.

If your dog can be left for short intervals, consider having a dog walker one or more times a day.

Enrich the surroundings: Turn on the radio and lights 30 minutes before you leave.

Provide treat-filled toy or safe chew toy as you leave. Regularly change the type of toy to provide variety. Also provide the toy at times when your dog is calm and you are not leaving, so the toy itself does not become a departure cue.

Provide a comfortable bed.

Tone down the return: Be low key when you return. Refrain from greeting your dog until he has calmed down.

Do not punish or scold your dog.

Pheromones: Pheromones are chemicals produced by the body that, when smelled, can effect behavior. Pheromone products, such as Comfort Zone® with Dog Appeasing Hormone (DAP) may help some dogs with separation anxiety.

Exercise and Play Routine: Another component of behavior modification that may help your dog to be less anxious is increased exercise. Exercise has mental as well as physical benefits for dogs. Veterinary behaviorists often recommend 45-60 minutes of intense activity twice a day. If your dog is a ‘couch potato,’ start out slow and build up the intensity and length of time over several weeks. If your dog has any health problems, check with your veterinarian before starting the exercise program.

In addition to exercise, mental stimulation (playing fetch, working on commands, practicing agility exercises at home or in a class) is also important. Many types of dogs were originally bred to do a job, and they can become stressed without the mental activity they would normally use if they were “working.”

Conclusion

Keep in mind that your dog does not have this problem behavior because he is mad at you or trying to ‘get back’ at you. Punishment, especially after the fact, will only be confusing and cause more anxiety. Always start with a visit to your veterinarian to rule out health problems. Separation anxiety can be a very frustrating and traumatic situation for both you and your dog, but with patience and proper treatment it can usually be dramatically improved.

References and Further Reading
Horwitz, D. Separation anxiety in dogs. NAVC Clinician’s Brief. 2008;November:61-62.  Horwitz,D. Teaching dogs to settle and relax. NAVC Clinician’s Brief. 2006;November:57-58.  Knack, R. Managing separation anxiety in a dog. Veterinary Medicine. 1999; 94(8): 704-716.  Overall, K. Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals. Mosby. St Louis, MO. 1997; 209-250.  Sherman, BL. Separation anxiety in dogs. Compendium. 2008;January:27-32.  Simpson, B. Canine separation anxiety. The Compendium on Continuing Education for the Practicing Veterinarian. 2000; 22(4): 328-339.

© 2010 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208

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‘Don’t give your puppy an old shoe or sock to chew on. Puppies don’t understand the difference between new and old.’

Puppies chew on whatever they can get their mouths on for any number of reasons: they are bored, they have a lot of energy, they are teething, or they are just curious. Dogs learn through their mouths. It is their tool; it is how they receive a great deal of information. They are naturally inclined to use their mouths whenever they can.

Fortunately, most destructive chewing behavior can be prevented or controlled. To prevent problem chewing and to direct your pup’s natural inclination to chew toward appropriate objects, follow these simple guidelines:

• Puppy-proof the confined area. If possible, remove all items your puppy can chew on, including socks, shoes, furniture, plants, etc., from any area in which you confine your puppy. Make sure electrical cords are out of reach.
• Confine your pup in a crate, cage, or puppy-proofed area when you are away. Because puppies learn with their mouths, giving your teething puppy free rein in the house is asking for trouble. Keep him confined; you do not want him to go to school on your expensive living room furniture. Make sure to supply the puppy with appropriate chew toys so the puppy has something to do and to teach the puppy what to chew on.
• Closely supervise your uncrated pup. Not unlike caring for a toddler, you should always be aware of where your uncrated pup is and what he is doing.
• Give your puppy chew toys. The sole focus of your dog’s chewing should be directed toward items you select. There are a wide range of items from which to choose including many safe, long-lasting chew toys that are made especially for teething puppies that will keep them occupied and content for hours. Examples would be knotted rawhide and durable rubber teething products, like Kong toys, that satisfy your puppy’s need for chewing and gum stimulation. The items should not be similar to articles you do not want your puppy to chew. Your puppy can not tell the difference between your new dress shoes and an old tattered pair.
• Make departures low key to avoid causing separation anxiety, which is often expressed through nonstop barking, whining, or destructive chewing. Before you leave, add your scent to your dog’s toy. Rub the bone between your hands and give it to your pup 15 minutes before you leave. This should keep the puppy occupied so you can leave without a fuss being made.
• Give your puppy plenty of exercise to relieve boredom and burn off energy – two significant factors contributing to destructive chewing. An hour of running, walking, and/or swimming twice a day is ideal.
• Correct chewing of inappropriate objects. If you catch your pup in the act of chewing anything but his chew toy, remove the object and replace it with an acceptable chew toy. If your pup then chews on the toy, praise him. You always want to reinforce desired behavior with praise. If possible, treat the ‘inappropriate object’ with a product designed to deter chewing, such as Grannick’s Bitter Apple or Drs. Foster and Smith Chew Stop that will give it a bad taste.
• Teach your pup to ignore non-toy objects if he consistently chews the wrong things. Place tempting objects on the floor along with your pup’s chew toy and pretend not to pay any attention to him. If (and usually when) he starts to put his mouth over one of the forbidden objects, correct with a firm ‘No!’ and point out his bone. Once he learns he can only have the toy when you are in the room, it is time to leave the room for short intervals.

If he chews on forbidden objects after you leave the room, your quick return will catch him in the act – the only time when corrective action should be taken. Again, give him the toy, and praise if it is accepted. If he is chewing forbidden objects but you cannot catch him, he should be crated when unsupervised until he learns what is and is not acceptable to chew on. Make sure to leave several appropriate dog toys accessible at all times. It helps to have a certain location such as a basket that contains the dog’s toys where he can go to get one when he wants.

The obvious purpose of this training is to prepare your puppy for the day when he can be trusted to be alone in the house and not confined.

© 2010 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208

A. A puppy likes biting and chewing on almost anything that enters her world. Just as with jumping, biting between littermates is their style of play. Biting also teaches them how to use their main hunting tool, their mouth with all those teeth. Unfortunately, this often carries over into their interactions with the members of their new home. All the people, including the children, are brought into the game. Puppies have very sharp teeth, and a bite or nip can hurt and be terrifying to small children. There are several methods that are used to eliminate this behavior.

Startle response and redirection

Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., an animal behaviorist and adjunct professor at the University of Wisconsin, suggests a method which startles the biting puppy. Just as the puppy bites down, make a sudden, abrupt, high-pitched and loud ‘AWRP’ sound. This would be the same sound that a littermate would make if bitten by the puppy. The sound should be so sudden and sharp that the puppy is immediately startled and stops the behavior. If done correctly, you will be surprised at how instantly the pup removes his mouth and looks bewildered. At that point, quickly substitute a toy, such as a ball, the puppy can chew on. This redirects the puppy’s biting behavior to the ball. This way the puppy learns it is no fun at all biting you, but chewing on the toy is. You may need to do this multiple times if the puppy gets excited in play. If the ‘AWRPs’ make the puppy more excited, try another approach.

Stop the action

Dr. McConnell also suggests that, in some cases, just immediately (and dramatically) leave the room when the puppy bites. This is certainly a method children can use. After multiple times, the puppy will learn that every time she bites she loses her playmate, and that is no fun at all.

Important prevention measures!

No matter what method you use, do not entice the puppy to bite you. Games like tug-of-war and waving your hands in front of the puppy instead of using toys may encourage the puppy to bite.

© 2010 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208

Dogs bark for other reasons too, and most of the time their barking is natural and not excessive.  Occasionally, though, you may find your dog barking inappropriately. The article below gives a great overview of the reasons for barking, personalities of dogs who bark, and some methods of controlling barking.

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© 2010 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208

© 2010 Foster & Smith, Inc.
Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com (http://www.PetEducation.com)
On-line store at http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com
Free pet supply catalog: 1-800-323-4208

Which foods could be dangerous for my dog?

A.

Some foods which are edible for humans, and even other species of animals, can pose hazards for dogs because of their different metabolism. Some may cause only mild digestive upsets, whereas, others can cause severe illness, and even death. The following common food items should not be fed (intentionally or unintentionally) to dogs. This list is, of course, incomplete because we can not possibly list everything your dog should not eat.

Items to avoid	Reasons to avoid
Alcoholic beverages	Can cause intoxication, coma, and death.
Avocado	The leaves, seeds, fruit, and bark contain persin, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea.
Bones from fish, poultry, or other meat sources	Can cause obstruction or laceration of the digestive system.
Cat food	Generally too high in protein and fats.
Chocolate, coffee, tea, and other caffeine	Contain caffeine, theobromine, or theophylline, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea and be toxic to the heart and nervous systems.
Citrus oil extracts	Can cause vomiting.
Fat trimmings	Can cause pancreatitis.
Fish (raw, canned or cooked)	If fed exclusively or in high amounts can result in a thiamine (a B vitamin) deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death.
Grapes, raisins and currants	Contain an unknown toxin, which can damage the kidneys. There have been no problems associated with grape seed extract.
Hops	Unknown compound causes panting, increased heart rate, elevated temperature, seizures, and death.
Human vitamin supplements containing iron	Can damage the lining of the digestive system and be toxic to the other organs including the liver and kidneys.
Macadamia nuts	Contain an unknown toxin, which can affect the digestive and nervous systems and muscle.
Marijuana	Can depress the nervous system, cause vomiting, and changes in the heart rate.
Milk and other dairy products	Some adult dogs and cats may develop diarrhea if given large amounts of dairy products.
Moldy or spoiled food, garbage	Can contain multiple toxins causing vomiting and diarrhea and can also affect other organs.
Mushrooms	Can contain toxins, which may affect multiple systems in the body, cause shock, and result in death.
Onions and garlic (raw, cooked, or powder)	Contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia. Cats are more susceptible than dogs. Garlic is less toxic than onions.
Persimmons	Seeds can cause intestinal obstruction and enteritis.
Pits from peaches and plums	Can cause obstruction of the digestive tract.
Raw eggs	Contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella.
Raw meat	May contain bacteria such as Salmonella and E. coli, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea.
Rhubarb leaves	Contain oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.
Salt	If eaten in large quantities it may lead to electrolyte imbalances.
String	Can become trapped in the digestive system; called a “string foreign body.”
Sugary foods	Can lead to obesity, dental problems, and possibly diabetes mellitus.
Table scraps (in large amounts)	Table scraps are not nutritionally balanced. They should never be more than 10% of the diet. Fat should be trimmed from meat; bones should not be fed.
Tobacco	Contains nicotine, which affects the digestive and nervous systems. Can result in rapid heart beat, collapse, coma, and death.
Yeast dough	Can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and possible rupture of the stomach or intestines.
Xylitol (artificial sweetener)	Can cause very low blood sugar (hypoglycemia), which can result in vomiting, weakness and collapse. In high doses can cause liver failure.

Simply put, there appears to be no factual “yes” or “no” answer to these questions.  The answers seems to depend, at least partially, on your view of what a Yorkshire Terrier should be.

The Simple View …. Perhaps the easiest view is that of the person who holds the guidelines set by the YTCA (Yorkshire Terrier Club of America) as the only correct standard for Yorkshire Terriers.  In other words, if a Yorkie does not conform to the guidelines set by the YTCA, that dog has undesirable traits.  The AKC (American Kennel Club) adopts the YTCA guidelines as it’s breed “standard” for the Yorkshire Terrier.   Therefore, those persons who participate in AKC dog shows will strive to produce (or purchase) dogs who conform to this standard only.  Others who simply feel that Yorkies should only look a certain way will also have this same view.

What is the “standard” coloring for a Yorkshire Terrier, as defined by the AKC and YTCA?  The AKC standard states that blue and tan are the only correct colors.  Disqualifications are “any solid color or combination of colors other than blue and tan as described above. Any white markings other than a small white spot on the forechest that does not exceed 1 inch at its longest dimension.“

Clearly, if this standard defines a Yorkshire Terrier, any color other than blue and tan (also referred to as “gold”) should be disqualified in a conformation competition.  Therefore, to those persons who feel this standard should define a Yorkshire Terrier, it would be clear that the only Yorkies which should be bred or produced are those whose coloring is blue and tan.   What about AKC registration of dogs with a “color anomaly”?  According to the YTCA website, “The American Kennel Club is registering parti-colors, solid colors, and chocolate and tan dogs as Yorkshire Terriers even though they do not meet our Breed Standard as written.  AKC will not deny registration on color alone.”

But Wait, There’s More….  On the other hand, some take the view that although colors other than blue and tan should not be shown in competition, they are simply beautiful variations of the Yorkshire Terrier.  They point out that many breeds are capable of producing several different combinations of coloring, and Yorkies are no different.  Though they recognize that the YTCA and AKC have the right to define the “standard” for dogs shown in AKC competitions, they feel that the Yorkie’s potential for producing additional colors should not be hidden or stifled by these organizations.

Others feel that not only should additional colors be enjoyed by pet owners, but all colors of Yorkies should be allowed to participate in conformation competitions.  There appears to be some uncertainty as to the actual implementation of this (should there be separate competitions for each color, new standard(s), etc). 

Differences of Opinion…..   These opposing views have led to a number of arguments about the origin, ancestry and other issues of dogs with unusual color combinations.  For example:

Are these dogs purebred? Regarding parti-colored Yorkies, the YTCA website states that “while some breeds have an occasional mismark and some breeds do have a gene for a white dog, we do not….Yorkies do not have white markings….never have.  A small white strip is sometimes seen on the chest of newborns but this always turns to tan within a few weeks…..No white dog or dogs with white markings were involved in the process of developing the breed.”

However, it should be noted that many purebred Yorkies do in fact have a very small white spot on the forechest.  As mentioned above, the AKC states that a disqualification would be “white markings other than a small white spot on the forechest that does not exceed 1 inch at its longest dimension.“  (Italics ours)  And interestingly, the YTCA acknowledges that a breeder could produce a puppy with a “color anomaly” and recommends that these puppies be spayed or neutered.

Regarding the possibility of ancestors with white coloring, some insist that any Yorkie with white coloring (other than the permissible small white spot) must have mixed lineage somewhere in the past.  For example, it is common to read speculation that the line was mixed with the Maltese breed or other breed(s) with white coloring.  However, others say that parti-colored Yorkies are the result of a recessive gene.  When two dogs, each with this recessive gene, are bred together then the result can be a parti-colored offspring.  They state that this gene can be passed along through generations without being known, until a dog carrying the gene is bred with another dog carrying the gene. 

Do Yorkies with colors other than blue and gold have additional health problems?  This has been a widely debated issue, and one which only adds another layer of confusion.  It has been stated by some breeders of “standard” Yorkies that the breeding of Yorkies with the parti gene can result in blindness or deafness.  (Do you see the additional layer of confusion?  Some do not acknowledge the existence of a so-called “parti gene”, but at the same time it is linked to health problems.)  Websites of parti breeders, on the other hand, seem to suggest that these Yorkies are not any more prone to particular health problems than “standard” colored Yorkies.*

Any Conclusions?…..   And the issues go on and on……these arguments are only the beginning.  The preceeding information briefly summarizes some of our observations from reading a number of opinions on various websites and forums.  These seem to change often, so there seems to be no point in providing detailed references or further debate here–you can find current opinions by doing your own search.  Although many of the opinions are quite strong, to put it mildly, we were unable to find definitive scientific research on the subject.  Some sites give various “facts” about the origin of the so-called “off colors”, but did not give references, so we hesitate to quote as fact here.

Given this lack of substantiated facts (or perhaps simply a lack of promotion of such facts), it seems unappropriate to here offer opinions as facts.  This is yet another issue that must be decided individually, based on the latest information.  However, regardless of the outcome of the various questions related to these dogs, common sense still applies. 

For example, when choosing a breeder remember that it is never wise to breed solely for one trait.  Any breeder who focuses only on appearance, to the exclusion of everything else, will eventually produce unsuitable puppies.  Therefore, be cautious of someone who promotes extremely expensive puppies with no information other than their coloring. 

It’s also good to keep in mind that we can find any number of opinions on websites, forums, blogs, and in speaking with someone personally.  No matter how convinced (or convincing) people are about their opinions, without some definite proof it is still an opinion–not fact.

It may be that there is never a definitive answer to all these questions.  The dogs we see today are the product of decades of breedings and there is no way to know exactly what took place at each breeding.  On the other hand, perhaps someday science will provide an answer that cannot be disputed.  Whatever happens, we can be assured of one thing:  continuous debate. 

And maybe on some level that’s a good thing.  French essayist Joseph Joubert said,  ”It is better to debate a question without settling it than to settle a question without debating it.”

*It should be noted that “blue-born” puppies are widely believed to consistently have serious health problems, sometimes unable to live or function normally.  These puppies are not the result of breeding for the “parti gene”; instead, they are an anomoly that can be occasionally produced.  This seems to be agreed upon by most breeders, regardless of their opinion of Parti Yorkies.  Puppies described as “blue-born” can be puppies with alopecia (hair loss).   The Merck Vererinary Manual explains this here.

Copyright 2010 Kosoma Kennel.  Quotations accurate as of writing.

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